June 25, 2026 Cooper Gulch USFS Campground, CA to KOA Journey Campground, Klamath Falls, OR

Deb here. I woke up at 6 and headed outside with my cup of tea to enjoy the sunshine and solidtude of the lake. So beautiful and peaceful, with lots of birdsong and a few fish jumping. Perfect.

We made breakfast sandwiches in the van and packed up and were on the road by 8:30 a.m. or so. The plan today was to see some more of northern California, so we decided to continue on Rt 299, which travels northeast. Not long into our drive we came to lots of brown National Park Service signs about entering Whiskeytown, complete with direction signs to camping, hikes, historic sites, etc. and we eventually found a visitor center. Who knew that Whiskeytown Shasta-Trinity National Recreation Area exists and that it’s protected through the park service? Apparently John F. Kennedy was instrumental in turning the area into a recreational area after the big dam was built. It encompasses a huge area and is a primo spot for boaters and fishermen. 

On through Redding, with stops for McDonalds, gas, Starbucks and Subway (for a sandwich on the road),  then northeast to Burney and beyond. There was a major delay due to roadwork twice today, with one of the holdups being over 30 minutes long. These east/west roads all seem to be twisty and filled with passes, so the roadwork needed to maintain them is extensive. 

In Canby we made the decision to turn off of Rt 299 onto Rt 139, heading across the border into Oregon. We’d hoped to make a visit to Tulelake National Monumentt, which we learned was a Japanese Deportation Center during WWII, but unfortunately it’s only open Friday-Monday and today was Thursday.

By this time I was antsy to be done for the day. After last night’s amazing USFS campsite I’d hoped to find another similar site tonight. Unfortunately, between almost non-existent cell service and a lack of public lands up this way, no such luck. We ended up booking a site at KOA Journey in Klamath Falls, which turned out to be a perfect move. We arrived at 3:30, took showers, did our bags of laundry and talked with both Hannah and Jake (and the gang). Later we went out to dinner at Common Block Brewing Co. for a great shared dnner of burger and Cobb salad, along with a local cider and local beer. 

Back to the KOA for reading and sleep. 

June 24, 2026 Big Lagoon County Park CA to Cooper Gulch FS Campground CA

Big Lagoon was not so great but functional. We first made a swing through Trinidad, which was a sweet coastal town with great views of the harbor and ocean. We then had breakfast nearby at Joe’s Green Barn in McKinleyville. Classic place with the old guys sitting in the corner solving the town problems, friendly waitresses, nice big booths.

Next stop was a little town called Ferndale which was established in the late 1800’s as a prosperous dairy community. Still milking cows but the town itself had those classic Victorian houses nicely painted. Hard to pin down the demographic here.

We stopped in Eureka to get some groceries at a Walmart (kind of crappy old one with no fresh vegetables) so we found a nearby Safeway.

Next was the rollercoaster Rt 36 to another Rt 3 rollercoaster (turn turn turn) and then to Rt 299. These roads go kind of west to east so they have to wiggle through the mountains hence the twisties.

At the junction of Rt 3 and Rt 299 we headed to Lewiston, and found Cooper Gulch Forest Service Campground with 5 sites total, and one not reserved. Actually the one next to us had a reserved tag but nobody ever showed up. This is a beautiful campground with sites right on Lewiston Lake. We took a quick swim in the brisk lake. Deb found a little trail and did a short hike along the lake and I read and worked on the noisy brakes. We drove a section of road today that was oil and stone and one of those little stones got between the disc and tin shield so we sounded like a grade school teacher dragging her fingernails across a blackboard coming into the campground.

Dinner in the van and off to bed with the MaxAir fans running on low because of the slightly high temps.

June 23, 2026 Americoast Inn, Brookings OR to Big Lagoon County Park, CA (north of Trinidad)

Deb here. We checked out of the motel by 8 or so and had breakfast and coffee at McDonald’s. We drove south on Rt. 101, stopping at the Redwood National and State Parks Visitor Information Center. The volunteer kindly gave us a newspaper with all the info about the 4 different state and national parks and her recommendations about hikes and drives.

We struck out for the Howland Road Loop and it turned out to be a spectacular drive. The road is dirt for quite a while and narrow, passing right between the huge redwoods. At the Mill Creek trailhead we parked and hiked along Mill Creek, eventually coming to the Grove of Titans. Wow, what a trail! We were up close and personal with the big guys and all the ferns and green understory. What a treat.

From there we traveled back on Howland Rd to Rt 199 and stopped at the Hiouchi Visitor Center for more information. The interpretive panels outside really helped us sort out the differences between coastal redwoods and sequoias, which we learned are found at higher elevations in the eastern Sierras. While there I asked the ranger about a chance of campground availability at Jedediah Smith NP Campground and he suggested we drive there and ask the ranger, so that’s what we did. She told us we could come back at 2 to see if anything opened up (it was 12:45 by this time), so we went back across the road to the visitor center and made lunch, read and napped for an hour.

I was there right at 2 but unfortunately nothing opened up so we decided to head south on 101 and see what popped up as an alternative. The drive was gorgeous, and we took the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway, a 10 mile side road that paralleled 101. Once again we were driving through the big guys and it was beautiful.

Cell service was super spotty to non-existent, but I managed to find a private campground near Trinidad that looked great and I called the park. They had room for us, but in the meantime we saw Big Lagoon County Park and thought we’d give it a go. We pulled in and found a few sites available for $27/night. Not bad for this area. We took a walk down to the beach, read, made dinner and called it a night.  

June 22, 2026 Sunset Bay Campground to Brookings OR

Another day on the Oregon coast..

This morning, probably like most mornings on the coast, it was fogged in. It seems that up until noon it is foggy near the water. Cool air, saturated air from the ocean, etc. I assume.

The campground was quiet this morning. Since the bathroom was “hideous”, according to the park ranger, we decided to skip the free shower to avoid any creepy crawly things (just kidding, it wasn’t that bad). We made coffee and tea and egg sandwiches in the van then drove the rest of the way down the park road to visit the Shore Acres State Park. A rich guy named Louis Simpson, a lumber baron, built his oceanfront mansion in 1908 and it burned down in the early 1920’s. He then built another bigger mansion that fell into disrepair. Then he lost his shirt in the stock market and his wife died. So he sold the property  and the charred remains to the state in the 1940’s and the state ended up razing the mansion in the 1950’s. Bad luck always follows rich people it seems.

The park service has turned the grounds into amazing gardens, similar to the English style gardens that would have been in place during Simpson’s time. It takes 5 park people to maintain it and they rent it out for weddings and other events but let the public in to look around. Beautiful place.

We then stopped at the Simpson Wildlife Reserve, where we heard lots of seals barking through the fog. We spotted two huge elephant seals down below on the rocks.

Last stop was Cape Argo which is a beautiful overlook out to the ocean. Just when we think we have the most amazing picture, another even better picture comes along.

Then it was south on Rt 101 with multiple stops to get the next most beautiful picture. We stopped for lunch at Cafe 2.0 in Port Orford. Then south on 101 again to try our luck at a campsite at Harris Beach State Park near Brookings. We stopped at one but they were full and they said the others in the area were full as well. It’s been a while since we got a hotel so Deb snagged a pretty nice hotel in Brookings. We went into town to the Fat Irish Kitchen and Pub and had pints of beer/cider. Then down to the town park nearby. We found the memorial to the Japanese submarine that anchored off shore, assembled a small airplane, and dropped a couple of bombs on Oregon.They flew the pontoon plane back to the sub and disassembled it and disappeared. The only time the US has been bombed by a foreign country, other than the drunk pilot who mistakenly dropped a suitcase bomb on Naco, Arizona during the Mexican Revolution.

We found a nice city trail that took us way out on the rocks on the shore and another trail that took us down to the beach. After that we went back to the Pub and had dinner. Hot showers and bed. No idea where we are going tomorrow..

June 21, 2026 Beverly Beach Campground, OR to Sunset Bay Campground near Coos Bay, OR

Deb here again. Woke up to sunny skies that quickly clouded over. I’m learning that the weather on the coast is really variable, although the temperature has been consistently in the 50’s/60’s. John slept in for Father’s Day and we had a leisurely start to the morning, leaving the campground at 9:30 or so.

We drove south, the weather cleared and we had a spectacular drive. The road twisted and turned up above Cape Perpetua and we found lots of places to stop and admire the views. We stopped at the USFS Visitor Center and had a long talk with the interpretive volunteer, who happens to volunteer with her spouse at Kartchner Caverns in the winter. She knew Bisbee well and we exchanged contact info for when they’re in the area.

As we drove south we started seeing lots of sand dunes and off road vehicles. In Winchester Bay we went into the harbor area and saw so many huge RV’s with trailers behind for their off road toys. We found a loop that took us to Umqua Lighthouse (beautiful spot) and then down into Winchester Bay and the large RV parks (state owned) designed for big rigs and their off road vehicles. Later on we learned that Oregon Dunes is one large playground for people on their four wheelers and a big money maker for the state. Interesting.

I’d contacted my fellow Bisbee Ukelady, Laura Smith, since she and her husband Mike have a second home in this neck of the woods. They were home today, so we stopped in to visit with them at their lovely home between Lakeside and North Bend. They’ve lived May-October in this part of Oregon for several years and they really enjoy the change between Oregon and Bisbee. We had a great visit on their deck in the sunshine, complete with some delicious rhubarb crisp.

By the time we left Laura and Mike’s it was late afternoon and we hadn’t eaten any lunch (other than rhubarb crisp) so it was time for an early dinner before we checked into our campground. Laura and Mike suggested stopping at Seven Devils Brewery in Coos Bay, so that’s where we went. Seven Devils had tasty fish tacos and beer/cider and we ate outside and chatted with Jake and Nath and the twins.

On to the campground to check in. Sunset Bay is on Cape Arago, which offers a few day use state park areas. This campground is okay, but feels a bit worn and tired, not as well put together as Beverly Beach. We took a walk to the bay and then followed a trail that led us up above the bay and more coastline to a point and lookout. It was sunny and the light was perfect for some gorgeous vistas.

No cell service here so it was a great night for reading. We walked back over to the bay in hopes of a sunset, but the skies had clouded over once again so no luck. 

June 20, 2026 Beverly Beach Campground, OR

Deb here. It was great to wake up this morning and know we were planning to stay in one place for the day. John made eggs and toast and we enjoyed hanging out in the van. I’d learned that low tide today was scheduled for 10:45 a.m. and I love tidepools, so I looked forward to walking the beach to the Devil’s Punchbowl, where we’d been told there’d be tidepools.

I set out about 9:30 (John opted to have a reading morning) and walked the 1.5 miles up the beach to the spot. It was foggy this morning and I didn’t encounter anyone for most of my walk, but as I neared the end of the beach I heard a loudspeaker and someone announcing something or other. Turns out there was a youth surfing competition at Otter Rocks (near Devil’s Punchbowl) which meant lots of kids, families, wetsuits and surfboards. Fun to see so many young surfers out on this cool and foggy morning.

I climbed off the beach by the long set of stairs up to the road, and then made my way to where the tidepools were supposed to be happening. I arrived close to the low tide time which turned out to be perfect. There were several Friends of the Otter Rocks interns (I think high school students) on the beach telling us all what to look for. I first went south into the Devil’s Punchbowl to see sea stars and sea anenomes, then down the beach to the north to see a couple of sea lions and more anenomes. Very slippery terrain but so fun!

Back to the van by noon and we had to vacate our campsite in F loop for one in A loop by 1 p.m. We moved our van to the new campsite and decided to go for lunner (or linner?) about 1:30 in Newport. One of the park rangers had recommended a couple of places to eat there, and after first striking out at South Beach Fish Market (long line and no parking) we ate at The Chowder Bowl on Nye Beach. This ended up being a great choice, with fish and chips for me and a chowder bread bowl for John. After our late lunch/early dinner we walked around and found the Sylvia Hotel, where I’d stayed with my aunt Ginny in 2012. By this time the weather had turned cool but sunny, so a pleasant afternoon.

Back to the campground for reading, napping and walking on the beach. All in all a lovely day on the Oregon Coast.

June 19, 2026 West Linn OR to Beverly Beach Campground, OR

Thanks to Beverly and Brett for the soft bed and hot shower and the good catch up yesterday. We have not seen them for a decade or more. Beverly was already gone to work this morning so we said our goodbyes to Brett and did our morning search for a good diner. It was a nearby Biscuits Cafe for the win and the food was good.

Deb snagged the last campsite at Beverly Beach so we were good to go on where we are staying tonight, something we usually do the same day. but since it’s Friday and Father’s Day and school is out and everybody is camping, the campsite supply is slim. The main goal today was to go to the Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum where the Spruce Goose ended up. My brother told me about it and I’m a retired nerd so it turned out to be a perfect stop.

The Spruce Goose was a huge airplane which Howard Hughes developed during World War 2. It is ginormous. The idea was to transport military supplies across the ocean for the war since ships took so long. There was a catch. It could not be made out of aluminum so Hughes decided to make it out of laminated birch wood. Some called it the Birch Bird but the newspapers started calling it the Spruce Goose to make fun of it and the name stuck. The war ended before it was finished but Hughes insisted he was allowed to finish it. They put it on the water to do a simple taxiing maneuver but Hughes decide to “take it up”, rules be damned. He took it airborne for less than a minute to prove that it would fly and it never flew again.

The Goose is the biggest thing in the museum but they have a wonderful historical collection spanning the Wright Brothers to space travel with bi-planes, WW2 planes, Vietnam era planes, DC-3’s, Boeing Jets, helicopters, rockets, lunar lander, SR71 spy planes, etc. We were there from 10 am until mid -afternoon so it ate up most of the day.

The tour guides were for the most part retired pilots who really knew their stuff. The museum is in two giant buildings with lots of large aircraft scattered around the front and back yard. Very impressive.

Next we drove to the coast and took Rt 101 south through several or so coastal towns until we found Beverly Beach and checked in. Deb asked about a second night and they had one site available so we booked two nights here, tonight and tomorrow. We want to be in Sacremento next weekend so we want to spend more time on the ocean this next week.

We did a quick walk around the huge state park and down to the beach. Dinner in the van, reading (a little) and sleep.

June 18, 2026 White Salmon WA to West Linn OR

Helga made us waffles and coffee and tea and we said our goodbyes and headed off the hill to the Columbia river. We crossed the $3.50 bridge (they read our plate and will somehow send us a bill) and we caught Historic Rt 30 which runs on the south side of the river. It is shared off and on with the interstate. Brady told us last night about the waterfalls on Rt 30 which we found. This road was built in 1922 and it is in good shape but very narrow.

Google Maps took us straight to Beverly and Brett’s house in West Linn. Brett works remotely so he was busy all morning but Beverly had the day off so we had a long catch up. It’s been 12 years since we have seen these guys so we had a lot of catching up to do.

Beverly gave us a tour of her various Maker Space project spaces with 3D printers and laser machines and the various clothing projects and tons of other projects for the cosplay stuff she does. This is in her spare time after her full time hospital job.

Their son Zack came over and we all went to lunch and for a nice walk along Lake Oswego. Ice cream and then back to West Linn. Brett was done with work by this time so we got caught up with him and then went out to dinner at Salvador Molly’s, a favorite  restaurant of theirs with delicious food and good beer.

Back to the house and then everyone off to bed. Brett and Beverly work in the morning so we said our goodbyes.

June 17,2026 Yakima Sportsman State Park, Yakima, WA To White Salmon WA

This park was ok but not stellar. The showers were hot enough but not that clean, and only about a quarter of the sites were full. We were close to downtown Yakima so we looked up a well rated coffee shop (Aventura) which turned out to be not that great. So all in all an okay stay here in Yakima,

Today we will visit an old friend Helga Burkhardt who Deb first met when she was 6 years old and living in Germany. She and her husband Klaus later moved to Oswego and were friends with Deb’s parents. We have not seen Helga for 30 plus years.

Rt 97 took us almost all the way to the Columbia River and crossed an Indian reservation. We stopped for gas in Toppenish and Deb asked about the fire we had been warned about by Google Maps. The fire was the day before and we did see burned grassland as we crossed the reservation today. A few fire folks were keeping an eye on it but there was no smoke or fire to be seen.

Once we hit the huge Columbia River we took Rt 14 on the north side of the river which took us right to White Salmon. Helga lived high above the river in a lovely neighborhood. Helga’s 87 and has been here about 20 years and her son and daughter live nearby so she has a nice setup. We sat on her back deck and caught up. She then took us for lunch at a delicious local bakery, a hike overlooking the river and then back to her house. Her son and daughter (Walter and Jeanette) and their partners all came over and we had a  nice dinner on the back deck. We all got to know each other until late and after a nice evening everyone went home and we fell asleep in the van in the driveway. Thanks Helga for a wonderful day. 

June 16, 2026 Deception Pass State Park, WA to Yakima Sportsman State Park, Yakima, WA

Deb here. Well, today was a whole lesson in flexibility! Last night I’d decided to just relax and not worry about a ferry reservation between Coupeville on Whidbey Island to Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula. The ferry was all part of our new plan to head south through Washington a different way than we’d intended.

We had coffe and tea at the campground and then decided to head out. We stopped to walk over the Deception Pass Bridge (very scary) and then stopped for breakfast at the Island Cafe in Oak Harbor and I pulled up the ferry schedules. It turns out that the 3 morning ferries scheduled were canceled due to excessive tidal action (or something like that), and the remaining ferries were all full with standby only. We talked it over and decided it wasn’t worth gambling on standby status, so concocted a whole other plan to head back to the mainland and travel on Rt 2, up over Stevens Pass and through Leavenworth.

John here for the rest. We got gas at Costco ($4.84). So gas prices are screwy out here. Some stations sell it for $5.99 and the next station is $4.99, then $5.69, etc. Costco was the best price and right on the new route and not busy at all around 10 am.

We backtracked on Rt20 and then went south on I-5 for not too long before we turned onto Rt 2 East which we would spend most of the day on. It is a beautiful road and mostly 2 lane with a couple of passes (4-5K ft) and a few ice covered ragged mountains, and as the afternoon wore on we started to see things dry out. As we drove through Skykomish we stopped at LouSkis Deli and split one of their famous Rainy Day Reuben sandwiches. A great setting with picnic tables outside on the river.

Then, after we climbed up and over Stevens Pass we eventually arrived in Leavenworth, a Bavarian themed village. Everything has the Bavarian thing going on and we stopped and walked around the village, splitting a frosted gingerbread cookie.. 

After leaving Rt 2 we followed Rt 97, finally turning on to super twisty Rt 821.We found a half dozen campgrounds between Rt 97 and Rt 821 that were either forest service or BLM. We skipped the forest service ones so we could get some more miles in and decided to stay at one of the BLM ones on Rt 821. Lo and behold, they were mostly all closed since they were renovating them. We then found a State Park in Yakima, Yakima Sportsman State Park, which was pretty empty with nobody to take our money so we had to call the nice State Park lady who told us to drive around, find a site and call her back. We called back and got another State Park lady who took all our information and credit card and told us to fill out a white form and put it on the dash. The white forms were back at the unattended park ranger shack so we got a little end of day walk in.

We reconned the bathrooms (B+) and sat in the breezy afternoon with a couple of beverages. Then cooked dinner, did dishes and hit the books then sleep.

Tomorrow we visit Deb’s old friend Helga and then on to the Portland area to visit with Beverly and Brett.

Another nice weather day just figuring it out…

June 15, 2026 Pearrygin Lake State Park, WA to Deception Pass State Park, WA

The couple last night said we had to go to the Rocking Horse Bakery in Winthrop for breakfast so we did morning coffee/tea in the van and headed out. Winthrop is a pretty hip town, in a good way. They made over the downtown to look kind of wild westy and not too cheesey. The people coming into and out of the bakery seemed a little younger and nicely dressed so we are thinking second homes folks or remote workers, but nice folks who have this amazing little bakery in their small town. Breakfast sandwiches all around.

The big excitement was the announcement yesterday that the pass over Rt 20 was open!. This pass was built in 1922 and then improved in 1972 and connects this beautiful area to Seattle and also acts as a conduit for the logging industry, although we did not see any logging trucks today so they must still be getting back to work.

We stopped at Washington Pass Overlook which had a loop hike to some gorgeous views. Then we stopped at Rainy Lake and hiked into there. Next we stopped at the Diablo Lake overlook for more great pictures, and then finally we stopped at the North Cascades NP Visitor Center in Newhalem. The weather was great and it did get into the 80’s once we came out of the Cascades. Deb had thought about another hike (Thunder Knob), but it was warm by this time and other trails were still covered in snow.

We had chatted with three women at Rainy Lake and they filled us in on routes after North Cascades to avoid the busy Seattle traffic. They highly recommended staying on Rt. 20 so we followed their suggestion, staying on Rt 20 and ending up on Whidbey Island after crossing the Deception Pass Bridge. We stopped at the Deception Pass Campground (Cranberry Lake) and site 179 was open for $43. Nice sites, flush toilets, hot water and showers. Living it up for sure. Deb explored the trail to the beach while I put my feet up.

Salad and soup for dinner, followed by a walk to the beach and microwave popcorn (decadence for sure). 

June 14, 2026 Best Western in Nelson, BC to Pearrygin Lake State Park, Winthrop, WA

Deb here again. We woke up to a beautiful morning, warm enough to wear shorts. We had breakfast at Marzano’s, the Italian restaurant that offered a special breakfast deal to Best Western customers.

After breakfast we drove through downtown Nelson and ventured across the bridge to the other side of the lake. What a beautiful location for a town. Nelson has 11,000 residents and I think I could be quite happy living there as well as Osoyoos!

Today’s goal was to get back into the US somewhere near Rt 20. Our route turned out to be spectacular, first traveling down Rt 6 to the border, where there’s a really tiny border crossing. The border agent looked through our van but was really pleasant.

The US side was quite a surprise, with mountains, trees, lakes and rivers. We started on Rt 31, going through Metaline Falls (cute town) and Metaline, then turning onto Rt 20 at Tiger. There was a rest stop there that included the General Store staffed by volunteers, which was really a museum of sorts with tourist info. We had a great talk with the volunteer there and ended up buying a few used kids’ books.

On Rt 20 we made a couple of stops, first at the logging flume historical site, which included a .5 mile walkway explaining the 5 mile stretch of wooden flumes that were built there in the 1920’s. Then on to Coleville (also a cute town), Kettle Falls, across the Columbia River and up over the next segment of 20. This time it was up and over Sherman Pass, which had a nice viewpoint spot near the top with an interpretive walk. 

Then on to Republic and through to Tonasket.  By this time we’d left the lush green forests and had entered a drier landscape with fewer trees.  At this point we got on 97 South and headed to Omak and Okanogan, where we turned off on 20 once again to Twisp and Winthrop. I hadn’t thought we’d make it this far today, but we kept plugging along and before we knew it we were in Twisp.

I’d read that Pearrygin Lake State Park was a good campground, so we headed here (just outside of Winthrop) and found they had lots of available campsites. The ranger gave us a site on the water and although it was 87 degrees when we arrived our max air fans cooled the van off nicely. After a walk around the park we set our chairs up in the shade near the water. I eventually went swimming and it was perfect.

Dinner in the van, blogging, reading and bed. 

June 13, 2026 Allison Lake Provincial Campground to Nelson, British Columbia

Deb here. It was cold again this morning but once again we’d slept really well. We’d thought that we’d cross back into the US today, but I realized we weren’t far from Nelson, which our friend Cooper had highly recommended. Also high on our list was laundry and showers, so we decided to head to Nelson for a hotel night.

This turned out to be an excellent decision, since we drove through amazingly gorgeous scenery once again. This time we mostly followed Rte. 3, which skimmed right above the US border in BC. So many fruit orchards, fruit stands, wineries and lush growing fields. Lots of lakes, so much green, mountains and blue sky. What’s not to like? When we passed through the lovely town of Osoyoos I commented that I could be quite happy living there. 

I made a reservation at the Best Western on Baker Street, which turned out to be perfect. Parking was included and Baker Street is the hub of downtown. We arrived in Nelson at 1 p.m., so we parked and walked to the farmers market. Some beautiful produce there, but heavy on crafts, so we walked around checking out the Nelson Friendship Garden and waterfall, then walked up Baker St to the center of town.

We stopped at the Kootenay Bakery Cafe for a bagel (John) and handheld cheeseburger pie with a chai latte (me). All was delicious. It was a treat to see so many fresh and local food options in Nelson. Folks were lining Baker St and we learned that a parade of the local high school graduates was about to happen. Always nice to see a community recognize their graduates!

Next stop was the Nelson Museum, Archives and Gallery, where we paid for admission and a tour of the Cold War Bunker. I’d read about the Cold War Bunker and was pretty intrigued. The museum had an art gallery with local artists downstairs, then a history museum upstairs. We spent a quick hour viewing the museum, then met our tour guide at 3 for a tour of the Bunker.

The Cold War Bunker tour was fascinating. Apparently it’s one of only 3 still intact bunkers in Canada, and it was left as it was back in the day. It was created in 1963 to house a group of 60 individuals who would be in the bunker if there was a nuclear attack. Really wild to see the space and hear the stories. 

After the museum and tour  it was back to the hotel for two loads of laundry and showers. At 6 or so we walked back up Baker St and had delicious fish and chips, along with a local cider and beer at Main St Vintage Diner. We ate outside and had a nice talk with one of the servers.

Back to the hotel to collapse.

June 12, 2026 Wilcox Creek Campground, Alberta to Lake Allison Provincial Campground, British Columbia

Woke up to a foggy drippy morning with views of only clouds and fog. The snow covered mountains were there when we went to bed bu somehow disappeared overnight. Coffee and tea as usual and we decided to keep going north on the Icefields Parkway to Jasper which was 1-½ hours. Not much traffic going north but quite a bit more going the other way toward Banff.

Driving into Jasper we saw the remnants of the 2024 fire that burned a whole lot of trees and a third of Jasper. Pulling into Jasper we saw row after row of temporary housing, mostly unoccupied now, but we assume housed the refugees from the fire and all the workers needed to rebuild the town. We found the Jasper Waffle Shop and both had waffles, blueberry and strawberry. After brunch we drove through town and saw the parts of town that didn’ burn and filled up with gas ($1.83/liter).

Jasper is the end of Rt 93 which we started on June 2 in Wickenburg, AZ. Now we head back south. If we go any further north we will be way north since the inner parts of BC are pretty wild still.

So west on Rt 1 and then south on Rt 5 to Kamloops, which is a big town (5 McDonalds big) and then turned onto Rt 5 south which is a slower two lane picturesque road. We stopped at Kentucky-Allyene Provincial Park but it was full. Then we went south another 30 minutes and found a site at Lake Allison Campground. Met some folks from New York that were returning from Alaska and had a nice chat. Supper was ravioli and salad then reading and bed. Hotel tomorrow night?

June 11, 2026 Wasa Lake Provincial Park, BC to Wilcox Creek Campground, Alberta

Quiet and pretty empty campground this morning. We took showers which it seems runs off the passive solar panels on the roof which did a good job of dissipating any heat it collected yesterday, that is to say, we had cold showers this morning. Coffee and tea and then hit the road looking for a Tim Horton’s, because we are in Canada after all. Milo had Tim Horton coffee and a bagel and Deb had a London Fog Latte and a breakfast sandwich. The young guy at the counter told us about a beautiful stop at a scenic lookout which we later stopped at and it was indeed very scenic. We drove up Rt 93 until it hit Rt 1 and then headed to Banff, the town and the hotel. The town was swarming with people shopping mostly, and filled up with gas ($1.80 per liter as opposed to the usual $1.72). There are not many gas opportunities on the Icefields Parkway so we take no chances.

We found a coffee shop (Wild Flour Coffee and Cafe)  and then found the Banff Springs Hotel (the castle looking pace) but we were ready to get on the road. But it turned out that the train that runs through town ran through town but the lights and crossing gates did not return to the vertical position, so the whole town locked up. Over an hour went by with nobody moving, just sitting in our cars. After about an hour we noticed that there was a back way out of Banff about 5km east (I think). So we escaped and another train was just coming into Banff as we left so maybe they are still there trying to get the gate open.

It sprinkled off and on all day but mostly off. The mountain scenery is just never ending. As soon as you get your jaw off the dashboard from one mountain view, another one comes around the corner, then another and then another, all day long.

We stopped and hiked into Peyto Lake, about 700 meters, along with quite a few other folks. Snowbanks were still everywhere so some of the trail was on packed snow but the view of turquoise Peyto Lake was well worth it.

For lunch we had cheese and crackers and apples and then we played the “where do we camp tonight” game. Some campgrounds were full and some were closed, probably due to snow but the furthest one, Wilcox Creek was open with plenty of empty sites ($33.50).

We made a fire, cooked soup and made sandwiches for dinner and popped popcorn in our new microwave experiment (works great).

Reading and bed.